London Fashion Week has been a digital spectacle this season, with coronavirus restrictions preventing the exclusive live catwalk productions we know and love. The collections for the Autumn Winter 2021 season did not disappoint, despite the lack of public spectators. That wasn’t the only big change this year, menswear and womenswear pieces were merged together formulating gender fluid catwalk productions. Womenswear designers renowned for their predominantly feminine collections have started introducing unisex pieces into their lines for A/W 2021. Molly Goddard renowned for her luxurious voluminous tulle gowns, featured broad shaped blazers, unisex knitted vests, and tartan kilts modelled by men. The key influences for her winter collection were derivative from a number of books she possesses and also the differences in generational dressing. The archetypes for the catwalk were inclusive of “A glamorous smoking grandmother, a sulking teenage son, an old man in tweeds and a young girl proudly ready for a night out.”
Some of the key takeaways from this season include an update of floral prints, moving towards a low key and stripped back aesthetic with a focus on singular motifs repeated consistently throughout the garment. Examples of this trend can be shown from by Emilia Wickstead’s collection drawing on the ideals of Romanticism featuring, gold and cobalt floral prints on white sartorial silhouettes and Yuhan Wang’s exploration of “how time, space and spirit connect women together, and how nature is an ever-present teacher.”
There was an injection of colour across the collections this week, with an emphasis on vivid colours and soft pastel aesthetics blended with neutral hues. This is evident from designs by Roksanda, Duro Olowu and Paul Costelloe. Costelloe’s collection was a celebration of 35 years showcasing designs at London Fashion Week. The production was hosted at the Waldorf Hilton, reminiscent of staple archive pieces with a nod to retro 1960’s and 70’s inspired styles. As Boris has announced the roadmap out of lockdown, the next rendition of London Fashion Week will hopefully be once again presented to audiences later this year in September.